At Life Beyond The Room, we pride ourselves on working in off the beaten path destinations, showcasing the hidden gems in Lazio, with partners who embody the charm and character of their unique communities. Our recent visit to Caprarola and Civita di Bagnoregio helped to introduce our US-based team to exactly that!
Most people know the region of Lazio for its capital, Rome, but there is another world completely as you depart the eternal city into the surrounding countryside. Our journey starts from the lakeside town of Bracciano – only a 45 min drive from the city center of Rome and 30 min from Rome’s international airport (FCO).
As we made our way through the beautiful crater lake further into the countryside, it became clear that this was a land rich in culture and history.
About 15 minutes into our drive we pass the archaeological park of Sutri, one of the three best-preserved Etruscan sites in Italy. This incredible park features monuments such as an early amphitheater, which would certainly have been an inspiration for later Roman designs.
For anyone interested in ancient pre-Roman history, this is an incredible place to visit where you can be taken back in time while avoiding the long lines and crowds typical of Rome’s archaeological sites.
Caprarola: Discovering Italy’s Hidden Gems in the Heart of Lazio
Our first stop was the town of Caprarola, just another 15 min drive from Sutri. This city on the hill was built on a ridge line which climbs in elevation as you move up the main street giving way to a spectacular view of the valley below.
The humble village is modest in its appearance, but at the top of the hill there lies a remarkable building which rivals any of the world’s great palaces. Villa Farnese, built by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese in the 16th century, is a massive palace positioned at the top of Caprarola.
The villa has since been turned into a museum and for good reason. Upon entering the massive foyer, it’s instantly obvious what makes this place special.
Every square inch of the walls and ceilings are covered with perfectly preserved frescos. Each room has a unique theme and is decorated with impeccable detail. As we moved through the palace, we felt as though we were walking through a storybook of the family’s history, accent to power and unprecedented wealth.
The incredible display of craftsmanship throughout the villa was an homage to the skilled laborers and ancient traditions, passed down from generations of artists and architects. Rooms such as the Map Room displayed 15th century maps of the known world in immaculate detail, giving insight into the intertwined relationship of both religion and science of the time.
After almost two hours of exploring the palace, we finally emerged into an amazing garden where we realized we had been almost completely alone in the villa for the entire duration of our tour. This was like walking into a time capsule, which we had all to ourselves!
As we made our way down the hill, we stopped at Trattoria del Cimino, where our host Samuele met us for lunch. This incredible restaurant is yet another example of an off the beaten path gem waiting to be discovered. Samuele, a young entrepreneur, was born and raised in Caprarola, where his family ran this quaint Trattoria.
As a student, Samuele found himself drawn into the world of wine and culinary arts. He spent much of his career working in world-class Michelin star restaurants from London to Geneva as a top sommelier. He eventually earned the title of number 1 sommelier in Switzerland while still in his 20s!
After a long and lustrous career, he found himself longing for his home of Caprarola, where he returned to revitalize his family’s restaurant business. He incorporated the knowledge he gained from working in world-class restaurants all over Europe, including his expertise as a sommelier, where he curated an extensive wine portfolio in his family’s cellar.
Samuele is now the 5th generation owner-operator of his family’s restaurant, which he has both elevated and preserved as a matter of tradition.
Needless to say, our lunch was nothing short of extraordinary! Samuele took the time to explain every ingredient, which came no further than 10 km from where we sat, along with the list of local wines which he thoughtfully paired with each course.
The lunch felt like a combination of a holiday at Nona’s house and a Michelin star dining experience.
Civita di Bagnoregio: An Exclusive Journey to Italy’s Disappearing Village
As we left Caprarola, we ventured about an hour north to the city of Civita di Bagnoregio, otherwise known as the disappearing village. As we worked our way through the “new” part of town, we came upon the lookout point which gave way to the view of Civita. This surreal landscape consists of a wide canyon with what can only be described as a butte sitting at its center.
On this island of land rising from the valley below is one of the most picturesque towns we’ve ever seen. Civita is built on the ruins of an ancient Etruscan village as well as a Roman settlement built much later. The “old” city can only be accessed via a pedestrian bridge which climbs its way from the valley below up to the city’s ancient walls.
As we entered Civita, it was hard not to find a great view. Every building felt ancient and, of course, there were still columns from ancient Roman villas spread throughout the city. This was yet another place that felt untouched by time and space. Well, almost…
The reason it’s called the “disappearing village” is because the land around the city is slowly eroding into the surrounding valley, causing ancient walls to tumble into the canyon below.
The purpose of our visit was to inspect one of our premier accommodation partners in Civita, Corte delle Maestà. This enchanting B&B used to be the home of an archbishop and is located on the site of an ancient Roman villa overlooking the surrounding valley. Stepping through the doors, you come across a courtyard littered with ancient Roman columns left from the original villa built on the site.
As you step into the building, you’re greeted by what can only be described as a fairy tale kitchen. The long wooden table is filled with local fruits, vegetables, and nuts from the surrounding farms, while a fire burns in the fireplace, giving the entire setting its charm.
Each of the 4 rooms are unique, featuring antique furniture, a mix of art, and a beautiful winding spiral staircase. This B&B is truly one of the most magical accommodations we work with, and it just so happens to be situated in one of the country’s most enchanting towns.
Experience Italy Like Never Before with Sensorial Travel™
Our team is passionate about sharing these hidden gems with the discerning traveler who is looking for something authentic and unique. Something that is enriching to their own experience, but also empowering to those they visit. This mutually beneficial relationship is at the core of Sensorial Travel™.
Both Civita di Bagnoregio and Caprarola are great mid-way stops between Rome and Tuscany/Florence for either a short visit or even a night or two. These are among the many sensorial experiences we incorporate into our travel designs!
To learn more or to design your own custom sensorial itinerary, schedule an exploration call with one of our travel designers HERE.
Happy Travels!
